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Types of Pearls Used in Pearl Jewellry

Pearls are classic and classy. Two women who wore pearls are Jackie Kennedy and Audrey Hepburn, who are still known today for their tasteful, elegant styles and choices of jewellry. If you are considering buying jewelry for someone who is like this, pearls may be the way to go.

Most people, when they think of a pearl necklace, picture a traditional strand of creamy-white colored, round pearls, but pearls come in a variety of shapes and a rainbow of colors for use in all sorts of jewelry.

 

Pearl Types

There are two main categories of pearls used in jewellry: saltwater and freshwater pearls. Saltwater pearls are divided in two types: Akoya pearls and South Sea pearls. There is also a type of pearl called the Tahitian pearl, which is a saltwater pearl. The following is a quick overview of each kind of pearl:

 

Akoya Pearls - A Jewellry Gem!

Akoya pearls mostly come from Japan and China, where there are cold bodies of salt water.

They are known for possessing the most brilliant luster amongst all the pearl types. Luster is the inner glow that the pearl emits. Pearls that lack luster look less shiny, dull. The average size of an Akoya pearl is 6-7 millilters and they come in a range of colors, including cream, silver/white, gold, rose, and grey/blue.

 

South Sea Pearls

South Sea pearls come from the warmer salt waters south of China, namely from Thailand, the Philippines, Indonesia, and Australia. The South Sea pearls are the largest and rarest of all the pearl types; it takes around two years for them to mature, and there are many complications that can happen along the way. The average size of a South Sea pearl is 13 millimeters, but some are as large as 20 millimeters. They come in colors of white, white/gold, gold, silver, silver/pink, and white/pink.

 

Tahitian Pearls for Jewellry

Tahitian pearls are grown in French Polynesia. They, too, are extremely rare, and cannot be massed produced for use in jewellry. This is because only 1 in 10,000 of the kind of oysters that make this type of ever produce a pearl. The average size of a Tahitian pearl is 9-10 millimeters, but they have been known to be as large as 18 millimeters.  They come in darker colors including black, black/rose, black/green, black/grey, silver/grey, aubergine (eggplant), and the most popular, peacock.

 

Fresh Water Pearls for Jewellry

Fresh Water pearls, as their name suggests, are grown in fresh water environments: rivers, lakes, ponds, etc. They are mainly produced in China, but Japan and the U.S. produce them as well. The average size for a Fresh Water pearl is 6 millimeters, and their colors range from white, cream, and grey, to pink, peach, lavender, and yellow.

 

Purchasing Pearls

So what about price? Prices for pearls vary based on their size and shape; the bigger the pearl, or the rounder the pearl, the higher the price. Baroque shaped pearls, which do not have a uniform shape, and drop pearls, which are shaped like teardrops, cost less than round pearls. Imperfections on the surface of the pearls or their amount of luster can also factor into price. All of these factors may effect the finished jewelry piece price.

 

Pearls are graded using two main systems: AAA-A and A-D.

AAA-A (Typically for Freshwater and Akoya Pearls, but often accepted for other types.)

AAA- Highest quality, nearly flawless— at least 95% of the pearls surface will be free from blemish. Very high luster.

AA- High luster, at least 75% of surface unblemished.

A- Lowest quality, lower luster, at least 25% of surface unblemished.

 

A-D (For Tahitian Pearls)

A-    Highest quality, very high luster, 90% of the surface unblemished.

B-    High or medium luster, 70% of the surface unblemished.

C-    Medium luster, 40% unblemished surface.

D-    Slight defects on 60% of surface, or deep defects on no more than 60% of the surface. Luster is irrelevant, as even the most lustrous pearl will be graded D with extreme blemishes.

When shopping for pearls it is important to look at the details of the item you are considering buying before actually purchasing. If the price is too low, than that may be a sign that they are imitation pearls.

Imitation pearls can come in plastic, glass, gemstone, or shell. Glass beads, as well as gemstone and shell, can be covered in coats of "pearl essence." Keep a look out for these words when shopping for pearls or pearl jewellry. While some of these materials look very similar to a genuine pearl, if you want the real deal, here are some ways to tell the difference between real and fake pearls:

 

  • Real pearls are fire resistant. If you put them over a flame, they will not melt. Any dark marks left on a pearl by the fire should rub off completely.
  • If you rub two genuine pearls together, any scuff marks should come off, leaving the pearl looking the same as before. Also, when you rub them together, real pearls will feel sandy or gritty.
  • When magnified, real pearls show to have a sort of maze like pattern on their surface; imitation pearls will look grainy.
  • If the pearls look too perfect, do not vary in color at all, or have absolutely no imperfections, there is a chance they may be imitation pearls.

 

Alright, so most of these tests cannot be done upon pearls before you purchase them. That is why the best way to know if they are real or not is to look at the price. As said before, prices vary, but here is a general idea of how much each pearl type costs:

South Sea Pearls are the most expensive. Smaller, less perfect South Sea pearls start at around 2,000 dollars for a full strand, while the largest and roundest of this pearl type have been seen for prices up to almost 100,000 dollars! This makes South Sea Pearls the industry king for high-quality jewellry use.

Tahitian Pearls can also be expensive. They average around 5,000 for a full strand, but larger and better quality ones can go for almost 20,000 dollars. If South Sea Pearls are the king, then Tahitian Pearls are the Queen desired for incorporation into jewellry!

The cost for a strand of Akoya Pearls ranges from in the hundreds, upwards to around 8,000 dollars.

Freshwater Pearls do not often sell for more than a few hundred dollars, making them affordable for all sorts of jewelry use.

When buying pearls consider first the taste of whom you are purchasing them for, know around how much you are looking to spend, and be aware of the types and terminology of pearls.